North Macedonia’s cuisine: beans and tradition
If there is one food at the heart of traditional Macedonian cuisine, it is beans, with dishes such as ‘tavche gravche’ and ‘chorba grav’. However, with climate change and the gradual exodus from the countryside, production is steadily declining, even in areas most closely linked to this culture, such as Tetovo

Tavche gravche © triocean/Shutterstock
Tavche gravche © triocean/ShutterstockTavche gravche © triocean/Shutterstock
Beans are considered a cornerstone of traditional Macedonian cuisine and a staple on the domestic dining table; however, in recent years, cultivating this crop has become a major challenge for farmers
According to agricultural literature, the crop requires temperatures between 20 and 30 degrees Celsius from sowing to harvest, along with a moderate supply of water, provided through irrigation, to ensure proper growth and development. Conversely, rising summer temperatures are making life difficult for farmers, who struggle to secure a decent yield.
Tetovo beans
When discussing high-quality beans in North Macedonia, the conversation almost always turns to “Tetovo beans” (known locally as “Tetovets”). Thanks to the unique climate and soil of the Polog region, the beans grown there feature large, round grains; they cook quickly and possess an exceptionally rich, creamy flavor.
Yet, farmers in this very region report that the total harvest of “Tetovets” beans has been dwindling with each passing year.
“In the past, one decare (1,000 square meters/0.25 acres) of land could yield up to 100 kilograms of beans, whereas now, even from two decare you don’t get 50 kilograms. I plant beans every year; I used to plant 3–4 decare, but now I plant 2 because of the severe drought and the lack of proper irrigation,” says Abdula Muaremi from the village of Tearce, near Tetovo, one of the few people who still cultivate this crop.
Krume Trpchevski from the village of Ratae, also near Tetovo, notes that in the past, every household in rural areas grew plenty of beans on their land, but lately, the crop just doesn’t thrive, leading people to give up on it.
“I don’t know if the climate has changed, making it unable to withstand high temperatures, or what the reason is. It’s very difficult to grow now; in fact, it simply doesn’t grow well at all,” says Trpchevski.
Abdula Muaremi adds that the younger generation has no desire to work in agriculture. “There is no interest in doing this work, and besides, it is very hard labor,” he adds. Krume points out that, although the crop may be more difficult to cultivate, it fetches a good price when sold.
The international cultural event “Bean Day” is held annually in the village of Tearce, near Tetovo, with the aim of boosting interest in the production of this crop. “Above all, for young people to show initiative and perseverance in continuing the cultivation of this recognizable Tetovo brand — that is one of the key messages highlighted at this festival, which has been running for 14 years now,” says Metin Muaremi, from the festival’s organizing team.
Agronomists from the Tetovo center of the Agency for Support and Development of Agriculture state that warm weather can prevent the blossoms of this crop from developing during the most critical stage of maturation.
If high temperatures and low relative humidity occur during the flowering period, the blossoms are shed, resulting in a failure of the beans to set fruit.
According to them, this is part of the bean-growing process that farmers cannot directly influence, as it depends on weather conditions. There are other factors that can have an impact — such as a lack of water — where intervention is possible; however, it is difficult to protect crops against the consequences of high temperatures.
A fragile product
Jovan Paunovski, an agriculture teacher at the “Mosha Pijade” Regional Center for Secondary Vocational Education in Tetovo, explains that the hot weather is not the only cause of the reduced yield, citing a pest commonly known as the “nettle spider mite.” („копривино пајаче“)
According to him, this type of agricultural pest reproduces more rapidly in high temperatures. Timely spraying with acaricides (miticides) is necessary; he notes that many farmers make a mistake by using general insecticides instead.
“The issue is that in the fields around Tetovo, beans are planted alongside corn, making it difficult to spray — it would require a drone,” the teacher explains. He adds that it is necessary to investigate exactly when the pest appears — for instance, whether it emerges during the flowering stage — and to determine when and how it can be treated.
He believes that climate is not the root cause, pointing out that other crops, such as peppers, have actually yielded a record harvest this year.
Due to the low production volume of the “Tetovo bean,” its retail price continues to rise every year. Meanwhile, supermarkets across the country are selling beans imported from Egypt, Kyrgyzstan, and Turkey.
The Ministry of Agriculture stated to OBCT that, under the Phytosanitary Policy Program, regular monitoring is conducted for the presence of the harmful organism Xanthomonas campestris pv. phaseoli in bean seedling production.
“In the event of an outbreak, appropriate phytosanitary measures are taken and mandated,” the Ministry stated.
They further noted that bean producers are included in the 2026 Program for Financial Support in Agriculture, which provides a base support of 30,000 denars (approximately 500 euros) per hectare, subject to established conditions.
The Ministry is currently forming a working group that includes representatives from the scientific community, tasked with developing policy proposals for the preservation of indigenous varieties.
“This development process will take into account climate change, the preservation of seed stock, and conditions for sustainable cultivation. The goal is to establish a more focused institutional approach toward preserving and continuing the production of crops of particular importance to domestic agriculture, including the Tetovo bean,” the Ministry stated.
Beans and tradition
In North Macedonia, beans are considered an important crop in the human diet due to their high protein content, rich amino acid profile, and significant nutritional value.
Many farmers who are no longer able to work the land due to old age, and who have no heirs, are selling their fields and furthermore, agricultural facilities are being repurposed for construction. These factors contribute to a decline in agricultural output, including the production of beans.
The most famous bean dish, regarded as a national specialty, is tavche gravche. It is prepared by boiling the beans for several hours, then baking them in an earthenware dish with onions, peppers, garlic, and spices. Traditionally, it is prepared on Fridays as part of a Lenten (fasting) meal; it is also considered an essential dish for any celebration marking a religious holiday that involves a large public gathering.
In addition, beans are also prepared in Macedonia as a soup or stew (chorba grav). This liquid-based version is often served as a main course for lunch, typically accompanied by cured meat, bacon, or sausages. When prepared using only vegetables and oil, the dish becomes a staple during major Orthodox fasting periods, such as those leading up to Christmas Eve or Easter.
A few statistics
According to data from the State Statistical Office, the period from 2014 to 2025 saw a continuous decline in the area sown and harvested with beans as a primary crop, decreasing from 4,834 hectares in 2014 to 3,571 hectares in 2025.
Alongside the reduction in cultivated area, total bean production has also shown a downward trend, falling from a high of 6,232 tonnes in 2014 to a low of 4,167 tonnes in 2025.
The average yield per hectare has fluctuated over the years, reaching a peak of 1,356 kg/ha in 2020 and a low of 1,035 kg/ha in 2017, while in 2025 it stood at 1,169 kg/ha. These figures clearly point to a persistent decline in domestic production capacity for this significant agricultural crop over the last decade.
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