At the Agarak border crossing, dust settles on the weary bodies of cars, while a longing for peace hangs heavy in the air. Here, at Armenia’s southern gate, where the Araks River flows silently between two worlds, news of the war does not arrive via screens, but through the stories of those crossing from Iran into Armenia.

Farhad’s story

52-year-old Farhad (name changed), who owns a printing house in Tehran, has temporarily rented accommodation near Meghri before heading to the capital, Yerevan. He says that while he is physically in Armenia, his mind remains in Iran, constantly updating the news feed on his phone.

“Do you know what the most terrifying thing is? It is not the sound of the explosion, but that split second when you hear the roar of a fighter jet in the sky and you do not know what will happen next”, explains Farhad. “We left home in a hurry. My wife wanted to take some belongings, but I told her: Leave them – only passports and medicine. Now I sit here in this calm, wondering if maybe we should have stayed. My friends are there, while I am here, quietly drinking coffee”.

According to Farhad, many Iranians now perceive Armenia as a “haven of peace”.

“We did not come here to stay We have no intention of emigrating from Armenia elsewhere. Our roots are there. I simply want my grandson not to jump out of his sleep at night when a tire bursts outside. Armenia gives us a peaceful night’s sleep”, says Farhad. He adds, however, that their financial savings are not inexhaustible, and he hopes that peace will soon return to their land so they can go back home.

Nazanin’s surprise

23-year-old Nazanin (name changed) reached Yerevan by bus with her parents during the days of conflict. This young student found more than just safety in Armenia.

“When I saw a girl playing guitar at the Cascade, I was genuinely surprised. Something like this cannot be seen in our country”, says Nazanin.

The fear of war in her voice is mixed with a sense of rebellion.

“I am very calm here. I like the pace of everyday life. People here live in the true sense of the word. I have fallen in love with Armenia. Honestly, I would love to live here, although I do not know how feasible it is”, says the student. She adds that if she knew the language, she would love to pursue a master’s degree in Armenia.

Saeid’s economic concerns

In a typical Yerevan courtyard where the children of Iranian migrants play with locals, 65-year-old Saeid sits in his car, engaged in a long phone conversation. He owned a small construction materials shop and a warehouse in Tehran. His house and a lifestyle built over years remained there.

“I am not a big factory owner, I am an ordinary shopkeeper. For fifteen years, I opened my doors at the same time every morning and drank tea with the same people. Now, my neighbor has the keys to my shop. I call every day and ask: ‘What’s the news? Is the building still standing?’. Business must live, if there is no business, there is no money”, says Saeid.

For him, Armenia is not a land of new opportunities but a peaceful harbor.

“I know Iranians who are thinking of starting a business here, but I want to return to my old address. I am currently spending the savings that were meant for buying new stock for my shop. In Iran, with 300 dollars I could feed my entire family for a month. Here, that amount disappears in a few days. Yerevan is expensive. Perhaps if I had an income based on local prices, my mindset would be different, but I am old now; maybe I cannot think anew”.

“Every day, I calculate how much longer I can stay in this rented house. As soon as things settle down a bit, I am going back. Here, I am just a guest, but my life, my goods and my work are there. The war forces us to choose: stay here and adapt, or go back home and take the risk”, says Saeid expressing hope that peace can come to Iran in the same way as it has come to Armenia.

According to Saeid, Armenians, who experienced the war firsthand, do not ask: “Why did you come?”. They simply open their doors. The visa-free regime is a lifeline for Iranians whose homes could be bombed at any moment. In Armenia, they are not strangers. Iranians, with their music, their cuisine and their daily habits, have a place here.