Ski touring: Bosnian adventures


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A ski-touring trip. White summits and breathtaking views. And no, we are not in the Alps. We are in Bosnia, on the Visočica massif. Led by Edin Durmo from Scorpio and our inexhaustible Massimo Moratti.

If you try to find it on Google, the risk is to end up in the wrong place. The Visočica mountain we are talking about has nothing to do with that of the (imaginary ) Bosnian pyramids. This one lies behind the Bjelašnica mountain, marking the border between Bosnia and Herzegovina and surrounded by the rivers Rakitnica and Neretva.

It is one of the many Bosnian mountains that are gradually becoming tourist destinations. Both in summer and in winter. The approach to the trip's starting point is comfortable, for once: starting by car from Sarajevo, you drive up past the Bjelašnica ski resort, descend into the valley behind it and go over the bridge on the Rakitnica. From here you reach a mountain hut, the Planinarski Dom Vrela, in the hamlet of Tusila. You can park your car there, as it is the starting point for ideal snow-shoe and ski-touring routes. The peaks are not very high, under 2000 metres, but the scenery is spectacular and the routes very rewarding.

The Subar summit is one of these. In front of the Planinarski Dom, you take the path towards the Vito summit, belonging to the Visočica. Once out of the woods you will find yourself in a magnificent natural amphitheatre, crowned by the peaks of the Vito. You ski through the whole valley, aiming at its final point and enjoying the scenery. At the end of the valley you start an ascent to your right, aiming at a very visible rocky spur. Once you reach the spur, the summit of the Subar is nearby, a couple of hundred yards further and you will be rewarded by beautiful views: the Vito crown, the Rakitnica valley, Bjelašnica and the impressive Treskavica massif.

Here the skins can be pealed off your skis and you can set off downhill on a constant descent, relatively easy and danger-free, ideal for wide curves all the way to the beginning of the woods. From here you continue on the tracks you left on your uphill route, right to the Planinarski Dom that awaits you with local food specialities and a well-earned beer to drink in front of the sunset.


Pictures: Massimo Moratti

Image editing: Davide Sighele